GHOSTS OF THE PURPLE SAGE

There is an almost universal fascination with the American ghost town, those empty places where the wind swirls dust along once busy streets and sun bleached signs appear as portals into a world now vanished. What is the lure of places that stand as silent monuments to shattered dreams?
The ghost towns of the southwest, and along old highways such as Route 66, generally fall into two categories. One is the pure ghost, towns with a population of zero where the surviving remnants are at the mercy of the vandal and the elements. As I learned in the writing of Ghost Towns of the Southwest, and Ghost Towns of Route 66, these are places as fragile as spring flowers in the desert.
Towns that twenty years ago were filled with skeletal buildings lining brush choked streets are today little more than faint foundational outlines in thick brush nestled amongst stunning landscapes. In many of these even the most creative imagination will have difficulty visualizing this empty place as a once bustling center of commerce with a bright and prosperous future.
The second type are those that have survived as artist colonies or recreations, a romanticised manifestation of what people expect to see in a ghost town. These often stretch the concept of ghost town and a more apt descriptor might be shadow towns as they are mere shadows of what once was. Tombstone, Oatman, and Jerome in Arizona, and Calico in California, would fall into this category.

Downtown Chloride, Arizona with the snow capped Cerbat
Mountains as a backdrop.

Chloride, northwest of Kingman, exemplifies the ghost town that falls somewhere in between. The empty railroad depot with the snow covered Cerbat Mountains as a backdrop, the wind swept cemetery with its century old head stones, and the often empty "downtown" intersection, hint that this village was once much more than a haven for retirees and eccentric artists.

Yesterday's in Chloride -
a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle of the
modern era.

Chloride rates high on my list as a place to savor solitude and allow the imagination free reign. Its close proximity to Kingman, and the excellent food in a pleasant atmosphere at Yesterday's Restaurant, make it one of our favorite places for a quick get away.
Hackberry, east of Kingman along Route 66, is less than a wide spot in the road. The circa 1930s general store, now a Route 66 icon, is its most famous attraction.
In the late 1870s this was a town with a future looming so bright the territorial legislature even considered it a candidate for the Mohave County seat. However, the modern history of the site predates this by decades as Farther Garces camped at the springs here during his expedition of 1776.

The Hackberry General Store on the post
1937 alignment of the highway while
the town itself goes unoticed.

Most folks, us included, zip past Hackberry on the post 1937 alignment of Route 66 without a second glance at the town itself. Still, on occasion we will take the old road through town just to see what remains.
Rhyolite in Nevada represents the ultimate boom to bust story. From raw desert to modern metropolis in four years; train depots, multi storied buildings with elevators, a city swimming pool in the desert, a beautiful school, and a population of nearly 10,000 ensured any visitor would know this was a town that was going places. Four years later, in 1912, the population was numbered at 75 and coyotes had free reign in the empty streets.

The Porter store front in Rhyolite frames a vast
desert wilderness where a city once stood.

Today the picturesque ruins of Rhyloite are some of the most haunting found in the desert southwest. As a bonus easy access on a paved road ensures it can be enjoyed by even the most cautious adventurer.
On our recent excursion to document the ghost towns of Route 66, we discovered a few new additions for our favorite ghost town list. Quiet, empty Endee, New Mexico, a town of more than 150 people less than sixty years ago, was one of these.
Often overlooked even by fans and enthusiasts of Route 66, Endee, located about five miles west of Glenrio, Texas has a serene, peaceful atmosphere that is difficult to describe. Perhaps it is the comedic relief that first greets the east bound traveler which sets the light hearted mood.

Downtown Texola, Oklahoma where good times are
a fading memory.

Another charming discovery was Texola, Oklahoma. The vintage jail draws most of the attention but the vestiges of better times are plentiful here and they are best enjoyed with long early morning walks along the quiet streets.
The reasons people seek ghost towns are as varied and unique as the towns themselves. For me it is the solitude, the tangible link to history, and a reality check that keeps me from taking life to seriously with manifestations of monuments to short lived dreams.

THE LURE OF THE GHOST TOWN

Fans of this blog may have seen a few of these pictures before. However, as the date for publication of Ghost Towns of Route 66 draws closer and as Ghost Towns of the Southwest continues its advancement towards sell out of the second printing, I thought you might find a few shots from our favorite ghost towns of interest.
These first photos were taken during the research stage of Ghost Towns of the Southwest. They exemplify the broad definition of the word "ghost town" and clearly illustrate the lure these places have for the adventuresome traveler.

Bisbee, Arizona - a true time capsule from the late territorial period.

Bisbee, located a few miles south of Tombstone is a true gem. Most of the historic section of town appears as an untouched time capsule. This is especially evident during the early morning hours when the streets are empty.

Ruins of a mill high in the mountains above Cerbat, Arizona.
This photo is available as a print.

No visit to Bisbee can be considered as complete without a stay at the historic Copper Queen Hotel. With but the faintest nod to the modern era this stately old hotel embraces visitors with a charm and elegance that instantly soothes and comforts the weary traveler.
The next town on our list is Cerbat, Arizona. Nestled deep into a rugged canyon in the Cerbat Mountains, the town of Cerbat was once a community with a very promising future. For a short period of time it served as the Mohave County seat.
The boom times lasted for less than twenty years, roughly 1875 to 1895.  Mines operated in the area from around 1860 until well into the 20th century.
Little remains of the town itself with the exception of faint foundations buried in thickets of mesquite. However, vestiges of the rich mining history abound. As a result it is imperative the visitor be alert to open shafts and collapsed stopes.

Endee, New Mexico - population zero

I will continue the ghost town theme with the next posting. To whet your appetite here is a little comic relief from Endee, New Mexico, a ghost town located about five miles west of Glenrio, Texas on a section of Route 66 bypassed in about 1952.

IN SEARCH OF THE MOTHER LODE

A short time ago we (my dearest friend and I) quietly observed an auspicious anniversary - two full decades since I first exchanged the written word for payment. To say the very least it has truly been an adventure.

Red Lake north of Kingman, Arizona

The never ending quest for that big sale, that opportunity that allows me to quit the day job, has proven to be quite elusive. With each passing day I develop a deeper understanding for the old prospector that just knew if he could climb one more hill, cross one more desert, survive one more long winter, he would find the mother lode.
Long ago I lost count of how many feature articles and newspaper columns have been written. The count for published books is now at six and climbing. Still, the grand prize that is the opportunity to make my living as a writer and photography remains just out of reach.
Every time I allow reality to bring me up short, every time I become discouraged enough to throw in the towel, the faintest glimmer of color is found in the bottom of the pain or a nugget is trapped in the sluice and the passion for the quest is reignited.
The nugget or color has taken many forms over the years; a call from Jay Leno, a publisher offering to cover travel expenses, a prestigious award, a glowing review, a lucrative contract. Still, the mother lode remains hidden amongst the barren canyons and desolate sands.
Dependant on mood I see my efforts to promote the books and skills as selling myself or prostitution. In all honesty I suppose that is the essence of life, trading time and skills for money that buys food, keeps gas in the Jeep, and keeps a roof over the head.
One lesson learned in the past twenty years is that promotion is more than half the battle. Lesson two is the importance of contacts starting with the fella upstairs. Last but not least is the importance of having a sense of humor.
Lesson one is a never ending curve. First, I learned to court the editor. Then, I learned to write. Next, I learned to promote. To that end I discovered a wide array of fascinating things and places such as blogging, how to build a website, and a website for book lovers and authors - Goodreads.
Here is a little something from that website, a plug for the books written.


Jim Hinckley's books on Goodreads

Route 66 Backroads: Your Guide to Scenic Side Trips & Adventures from the Mother Road (Backroads of ...)

reviews: 1
ratings: 3 (avg rating 4.00)

The Big Book of Car Culture: The Armchair Guide to Automotive Americana

ratings: 1 (avg rating 0.0)

Ghost Towns of the Southwest: Your Guide to the Historic Mining Camps and Ghost Towns of Arizona and New Mexico

ratings: 3 (avg rating 0.0)

Backroads of Arizona: Your Guide to Arizona's Most Scenic Backroad Adventures

ratings: 1 (avg rating 0.0)

Greetings from Route 66: The Ultimate Road Trip Back Through Time Along America's Main Street

The gist of today's post is this - if you want to become a writer read the subheading on this blog. Then learn to smile, to laugh at yourself, and learn to enjoy adventures be they on the back roads, on Route 66, or in seeking the mother lode.

THE WELL LAID PLANS OF MICE AND MEN

The fact that I am writing this while eating lunch at 2:30 in the afternoon should give you an idea as to how my day is going. Yesterday was almost the same in regards to work load but much of that was pertaining to the Route 66 encyclopedia.
This leads to an explanation for today's post. My goal was to be back on a semi normal schedule that would allow for posting every day. Judging by the posts of the past few days, you can see how well that has worked out.
Still, I have no complaints. Perhaps I should rephrase that. My complaints are relatively minor and most of the problems that result in complaints have my name listed as the manufacturer.
It was a pleasant morning so I saddled up and rode to work skirting the fairgrounds and then crossing Route 66. That was the end of the calm morning.
Apparently the young fellow who washes vehicles for me in the afternoons developed eye trouble yesterday as he could not see any reason to wash or inspect anything. So, I started the day with an office full of customers and not one ready vehicle ready to roll.
As a result, I would wash a truck, check tires and fluids, and then rent the vehicle. A chaotic, slow and frustrating way to conduct business but doable. Then came customer number three.
Washed. Check. Fluids checked. Check. Correct tire pressure. Check. No Internet service. On to plan "B". Manual contract written. Manual credit card authorization unavailable. Invalid merchant number. District manager called. For security, number has been changed. New number acquired. Internet service now available. Void manual contract as per protocol. Check out customer. What fun!
This is one of those days that exemplifies the old adage, "If you think today is bad wait until tomorrow when it is worse and then it will seem like a good day." Just yesterday afternoon, in spite of a very productive weekend, I could feel the pressure build as the enormity of the encyclopedia project, and the responsibility of ensuring it is an accurate research tool and yet current enough to be utilized as a promotional vehicle for businesses along the route. Now, I find myself missing that level of stress as it seems so benign in comparison.
Still, neither work load is really that bad. The office job that pays the expenses of my writing habit and that puts beans on the table is often enjoyable. The people I meet, the opportunity to help, and the challenges that require me to think fast and be creative in problem solving fits me well.
However, it is in writing and photography that I derive the greatest pleasure. It is more than a creative outlet for the sharing of my love for the open places, the road less traveled, and the vehicles that traversed those roads. It is an endless series of doors that open to new adventures, to the meeting of fascinating people, and that move me one step closer to realizing a childhood dream.
Now, before I close, here are a couple of updates that might be of interest. The official theme for the August edition of Chillin' on Beale Street, scheduled for the evening of August 21, is going topless on Route 66.

As always the event is open to anything with wheels from bicycles, trikes, and motorcycles to hot rods, trucks, and antiques. However, the spotlight will be on the top down fun of the convertible.
Full details have not been released but there will be some exciting changes to this edition. Most notable are the hours at the Power House Visitor Center and Route 66 Museum will be extended until 8:00 PM which in my book interprets into cruising.
Another item of potential interest for fans of the automobile is a huge block party with burn out contests, cars, more cars, and music at Martin Swanty Chrysler on the evening of August 14. The dealershipp is located about 1.25 miles west of the I40 interchange on Andy Devine Ave. (Route 66).

A WEEK OF INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS

It has been a grand week here on Route 66. Friends old and new, progress on the new book, a Route 66 encyclopedia and atlas, good food, and even time for a drive or two were counted among the highlights.

By Friday the request for information and assistance that had consumed most of Monday was beginning to bear fruit, a tremendous relief. We ended the week with a pleasant dinner and excellent conversation with Dale Butel of Route 66 Tours, an Australian tour company specializing in the legendary double six.
The Hualapai Mountain Lodge and Resort, as well as Hualapai Mountain Park, have to rate high on a list of attractions missed by the majority of travelers getting their kicks on Route 66 in the Kingman area. First time visitors are astounded to discover that it is only a drive of one dozen miles from Route 66 to a pine forested island in the desert that is laced with miles of shade dappled trails.
During the months of summer the temperatures are often twenty degrees cooler. In the winter the park, lodge, and restaurant provide a rare treat for desert dwellers - a chance to play in the snow.
Our week of international visitors included dinner on Tuesday night with Dries Bessels of the Dutch Route 66 Association and his tour group. On Wednesday, I had an unexpected visitor to the office, a young lady from Russia who recently moved to Kingman and won a copy of my book, Route 66 Backroads at the last Chillin on Beale Street.
One aspect of writing that I have yet to grasp is how far reaching my work is even though it has yet to manifest as a profitable endeavor. Still, it is becoming increasingly obvious that the primary goal of sharing my love for the back roads and encouraging folks to take to the road less traveled is bearing fruit.
In addition to these international visitors a Dutch couple on holiday stopped by the last Chillin' on Beale Street in search of Jim Hinckley. A couple of weeks ago the owner of the mail store I use called to say a group of European motorcyclists where there looking for me.
This is all a bit heady for someone who has spent most of his life living in anonymity and seeking the empty places. To say all of this is an interesting turn of events would be an understatement.
Meanwhile, back at he ranch ...
The upcoming week promises to be a busy one. There is the need to push the text for the encyclopedia to 20,000 word, finalization of plans to attend the Authors Fair in Duarte, California in Ocotber, promotional work on the next installment of Chillin' on Beale Street (Going Topless on Route 66), and working out the details pertaining to a request for an article for the Arizona Republic.

All of this leaves me amazed when I hear people say they are bored or killing time. I think the last time boredom was an issue Carter was in office. As to killing time, I will try that after I finish this book, assist with a groups forthcoming trip to Supai, finalize plans for Amarillo next summer, replace the roof on the back of the house, rebuild the porch roof, rebuild the carb on Barney the wonder truck, get this dental surgery behind me, finish the trip to Crown King via one hundred miles of Jeep trail, ...