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Friday, May 7, 2010

ROAD TRIP

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I awoke this morning with a start and realized that my schedule for the next two weeks is rather full and there has been little planning or preparation for the long awaited Route 66 road trip. As we are mere weeks away this is not a good thing.
Aside from the book signing tonight and next Saturday, I have the author's reception at the college next Friday evening, the job, another installment of The Independent Thinker to pen for Cars & Parts magazine, and the swamp cooler to prepare for summer usage. Then I will need to service the Jeep and replace a couple of tires. 
So, early this morning the first stage of my often elaborate trip planning began with the check book, an atlas (a current one, not the 1929 version that would really make the trip interesting), Jerry McClanahan's EZ 66 Guide, and a calculator. I would like to avoid excessive planning but as the day job still dictates how a large part of my life is lived there is little choice but to set rough goals.
Roughly, it looks something like this. Saturday I work until noon so we could be on the road by 1:00 and easily make Holbrook, 235 miles. This would provide a viable excuse for staying at a Route 66 icon where the rooms are shaped like the dwellings once used by Native Americans on the Great Plains. 
Day two, chasing as much of Route 66 as possible, we would shoot for Santa Rosa, 235 miles. Stops in mind include Cubero, Old Town in Albuquerque, checking on progress at the Sunset Motel in Moriarty, and the sites in Santa Rosa.
Day three will be the Route 66 ghost town tour with the destination goal being Shamrock in Texas, 263 miles to the east. As we will have the Jeep, plans are to explore the section of old road between Cuervo and Newkirk as well as the leg from San Jon to Glenrio, including Endee, and the legendary Jericho Gap, provided we obtain permission for some sections on private land.
We may be over extending a bit as Amarillo is on this leg as is the Midpoint Cafe in Adrian. This means a stop for legendary pie as well as a visit to the Big Texan and Bob Lile's art gallery, the primary outlet for our signed prints. Additional pressure comes from the desire to stop at the museum in McLean.
Day four may be another push as the days destination is somewhere near Tulsa, a distance of about 270 miles. As plans call for exploring Texola, the museum in Clinton, Foss, Bridgeport, and, I hope, a visit with a few old acquaintances, This might be a long day with some resultant disappointment as we might have to scratch a couple stops from the list.
Day five will be relatively short but filled will all manner of stops and adventures. The destination is Springfield in Missouri, a run of something like 200 miles but with planned stops at Afton Station, Cafe on the Route, 4 Women, Spencer, and Gay Parita it might be another long day.
Day six we set our sights on home, hit the Missouri and Kansas stops missed the day before and roll west along the Kansas border with our destination being Enid in Oklahoma. I am hoping to gather some information on the Geronimo, an automobile manufactured in that town.
Day seven marks the beginning of the real push to make time. Still, I plan on the scenic route and as a result am looking to wander into the Panhandle of Oklahoma before turning south on U.S. 54 and the overnight stop at another icon of the highway in Tucumcari, a drive of 375 miles.
It is feasible that I can make it home the following day as it will be about 650 miles and all interstate, I-40. After all, I used to run to Oklahoma City from Kingman in one day, layover, make the return trip, have two days off, and start over again.
Still, this is supposed to be a vacation without a great deal of schedule pressures or whirlwind adventures such as last weeks trip to California. So, I am setting sites on Holbrook or Winslow. That would leave the last 200 plus miles for the next day.
As is always the case when planning a road trip there is the need for restraint and the realization it is impossible to see or do it all in one trip. Still, I have factored in a plan "B" dependant on constraints of time and money.
If we still have any of the latter I might adjust the last two days so we can experience the sites found on the pre 1937 alignment of Route 66 in New Mexico. In this scenario we drive from Enid, across the Panhandle of Oklahoma, catch U.S. 56, and roll into Clayton.
Then we continues west through Las Vegas and Santa Fe and overnight somewhere between Albuquerque and Winslow.
Now, what am I missing? Suggestions? Ideas?

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

THE LIGHTER SIDE OF TRAVEL

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Travel is the seasoning that gives life zest. The caveat to this is that if travel is to add spice to life, the traveler must have an open mind, a sense of adventure, and the ability to find humor in all situations.
A traveler without these attibutes will find little joy in a road trip or in experiencing new and different places. Of course an individual void these traits will most likely be just as miserable at home as on the road.
Our recent trip to California was a condensed vacation filled will all manner of opportunity for adventures and new experiences. It was also an opportunity to foster deeper appreciation for what we have in Kingman.
As we motored west into the darkness that hid the harsh and sterile landscapes of the Mojave Desert there was ample time for reflection on how just how much of a blessing the interstate highway system is. Such reflections on the modern era are always tempered by thoughts on the price paid for these conveniences and what has been lost in providing corridors for high speed travel where the traveler is insulated from the sights, the sound, the smells, the feel, and the very essence of the towns or landscapes being driven through.
From Barstow south over the Cajon Pass on I15, even during the early morning hours, the traffic is fast and furious. For those who seldom encounter such motorized frenzy there is an initial exhilaration that is soon replaced with the overwhelming sense of being caught up in an automotive game of Russian roulette.
Leaving the freeway to weave through the maze of surface streets where drivers test their vehicles horsepower and braking abilities with rapidity enhances the sensation that the Fates are being tempted. Only arrival at the destination, in our case Auto Books - Aero Books in Burbank, brings a brief interlude of relief.
The Internet, like the freeway system, is a mixed blessing. On one hand it enhances travel by allowing for careful research of motels and restaurants eliminating nasty surprises. The flip side is that more often than not the surprises are what are most memorable about a trip.
As we knew exhaustion would be nipping at our heels after the long drive and the book signing, we utilized the resources of the Internet to locate a motel that we could afford and that was in a location where we would not have to take turns sleeping. Now, as the crow flies our destination, Calabasas, is less than fifty miles to the west of Burbank on legendary U.S. 101.
In this, the modern era with our freeways and high powered, motorized cocoons, it was about an hours drive with speeds ranging from near eighty to zero, often within the distance of a city block or two. I should add this was on a Saturday afternoon when traffic was considered light!
After locating our motel, an adventure that included asking directions from residents who knew less about their town than we did, it was time to find some place unique for dinner as our custom when traveling is to avoid the generic unless faced with starvation. In this instance we discovered a delightful place with prices that ranged from the upper end of moderate to expensive.
Isabella's Italian Kitchen‎
29020 Agoura Road, Agoura Hills, CA 91301-2573
(818) 865-8472‎
The food was excellent, the service even better, and the atmosphere, enhanced by dearest friend, was superb. The frosting on the cake was a tremendous touch of irony that tickled my funny bone.
Here we were in an Italian restaurant eating some of the best, most authentic Italian food since a visit to Chicago some years ago, and the entire staff was Mexican. Even better, the owner is Carlos Lopez.
As we left, I was awarded another opportunity for a journey into the ironic. At the other end of the parking lot was a night club that, according to the poster out front, was in essence a nudie bar. On one side of the entrance were photos of the girls that would be performing that evening. On the other side was the clubs strict dress code.
For breakfast we discovered the Marmalade Cafe conveniently located near the Barnes & Noble store where I was to sign books. Again the prices were at the high end of moderate but the food was superb as was the service.
Best of all was the availability of sidewalk seating even though the morning chill necessitated a light jacket. The chill seemed to enhance the flavor of the coffee and the song birds that danced on the rail at arms length from our table added to the conviction that we were no longer in Kansas, or for us, Arizona.
Over breakfast I jokingly noted the excellent whole grain bread was filled with bird seed. Apparently the birds agreed as when I returned to leave a tip several were dancing on the table with a stray crust.
Avoidance of the crush of traffic that dominates the highway system in the Los Angeles area was our excuse for taking the long way home via the beach at Malibu, the strawberry fields near Oxnard, the vast orchards amongst the rolling hills near Fillmore, and the breathtaking fields of poppies east of Gorman. Our little detour added about 150 miles to the trip but isn't that part of the fun when it comes to road trips?
Semi refreshed I am ready to face another grueling month that includes the real job that makes such adventures possible, an appearance and book signing at an authors reception at Mohave Community College on the evening of May 14th, a book signing in conjunction with the Bob Waldmire Memorial Exhibit at the Beale Street Gallery this Friday evening, and another signing at the 6th Annual KABAM Festival and Downtown Merchants Association Spring Fair in historic downtown Kingman on Saturday, May 15. 
I am not a greedy man nor am I unaware how fortunate we have been to have our weekend adventures but the carrot at the end of the stick is our twice postponed vacation, a journey east on Route 66. This will be our first real vacation since April, 2009.
On a final note, I have received notice that the second printing of Ghost Towns of the Southwest will be available the first week in June. As our trip is scheduled for the last week in May, I will be unable to deliver signed copies in person to those businesses along the old double six that sell books I have written. However, I should be able to fill orders for signed copies immediately upon our return but there will be shipping charges.
However, if you order copies of Backroads of Arizona or Route 66 Backroads, I may be able to accommodate requests for a delivery. Moreover, if you have a business, museum, or event planned, and feel a book signing would be advantageous, please drop me a note in the next ten days or so, or contact Maurrie Salenger, the marketing manager at 612-344-8154.



Monday, May 3, 2010

TURN LEFT AT THE BRIDGE THAT USED TO BE PAINTED YELLOW

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The primary lesson learned from this past weekends whirlwind trip to Auto Books - Aero Books in Burbank, California, was don't be afraid to ask for directions and don't expect those you ask to know more than you do. Hence the title for today's post.
This particular adventure started with a full day at the office and a short stop by the Beale Street Gallery to check on Chris, his wife, and Angela, the gallery owner. They had been working against the clock to prepare the Bob Waldmire exhibit for the opening that evening that would coincide with the start of the Route 66 Fun Run.
After a few hours of sleep we rolled west crossing the Colorado River into California at 4:00 AM. We were deep into the Mojave Desert when the eastern sky turned pink and dawn began chasing the mountain shadows across the stark desert valleys.
We focused on the task at hand and fought the urge to find a track across the desert where we could bask in the morning solitude. This became even more of a difficulty after reaching Barstow and the joining the flood of traffic that flows south, over the Cajon Pass, and into the LA basin.
By LA standards the traffic inbound was relatively light. Still, for us small town folks six lanes of high speed driving in a veritable sea of motor vehicles is a rather exhilarating adventure to say the very least.
Our destination, Auto Books - Aero Books on Magnolia Boulevard in Burbank is more than a time capsule mom and pop book store, especially on Saturday mornings. In addition to an inventory that is staggering in its diversity, the Saturday morning activities include a never ending parade of automotive history, an endless ebb and flow of bibliophiles and gear heads, fresh pastries from the historic bakery at the end of the block, and lots of coffee.
I was not taking artistic license when noting the inventory was staggering in its scope. I challenge anyone remotely interested in books to visit and see if they can get in and out in 15 minutes. 
In our recent visit, I looked at an original three volume set of Studebaker parts books from 1929, an encyclopedic work on vintage automotive wrecks, several biographies on German World War II pilots, another biography on Walter Marr, and a definitive work on the Stanley brothers and the Packard automobile company. My wife found a biography on Jimmy Stewart, the actor and a decorated World War II pilot, a detailed repair manual for the Model A Ford, and an original book on the 1909 around the world race.
While I signed books she took pictures as cars came and went, and the crowds ebbed and flowed. There were new Jags, an original black plate Buick Wildcat, a few sports cars of various makes, convertibles, and even antiques. It was just another typical Saturday at Auto Books - Aero Books.
To find lodging in the greater Los Angeles area that doesn't break the bank but that is also in a safe, central location is a challenge. On this adventure we discovered the Good Nite Inn, a chain with a motel in Calabasas, about thirty miles west on Burbank off U.S. 101.
Old, clean, surprisingly quiet, nice location, and a price of $86, including tax, were the positive. The flip side were odd things like a door that was tweaked to the point the gap at the frame toward the bottom could be filled with a towel.
Saturday evening, with exhaustion looming, we discovered a delightful little restaurant a few miles to the west on Agoura Road in Agoura Hills. I find it a bit odd to eat at a very authentic Italian restaurant where it was obvious everyone spoke Spanish as a primary language.
The food was excellent. The price at the upper end of moderate. The service excellent. In my book Isabella's Italian Kitchen rates quite high and will be visited again as soon as an opportunity presents itself.
Sunday morning dawned clear and cool with the faintest hint of a sea breeze in the air (as the crow flies Malibu is about 20 miles to the south). So, we set out for the Marmalade Cafe in Calabasas with their sidewalk seating.
Here the setting, service, and food rate very high. The price leaned toward expensive. Still, I can honestly say it was a delightful breakfast enhanced by the company of my dearest friend and colorful song birds at arms length.
After an informal signing at the Barnes & Nobel we set sail for the homeward journey via a detour through beautiful Topanga Canyon to Malibu, up the coast to Oxnard and then inland into the deserts at Lancaster and Mojave.
My wife and I are desert folks through and through. Still, we enjoy the coast and will take a stroll along the beach any time an opportunity is presented.
On this visit our timing was perfect as a large farmers market with all manner of fresh produce was taking place in Malibu. In addition to the delightful fruits and vegetables there were vendors sell, and providing samples, of all manner of foods including authentic Greek and Afghan treats.
With afternoon fast approaching, and a drive of more than 400 miles ahead of us, we reluctantly saddled up and set home in earnest. What a delightful final chapter - a cruise along the coast, a basket of fresh strawberries, dried papaya chunks, odd Afgahn treats, and, as we neared the deserts, vast fields of brilliant orange California poppies.
Initially we had planned a return on Route 66, at least from Ludlow to Essex, but exhaustion was on our heels as the sun sank toward the western horizon and so we chose the shortest distance, set the cruise control, and rolled east on I-40 after a short stop to refuel in Barstow. In spite of the long drive that still awaited us with shadows lenghtening across the desert floor and a Technicolor sunset on the far horizon we just couldn't resist a few stops to savor our beloved deserts.
The urge to stop corresponded directly with the deepening dusk. This photo, and the new one at the top of the page, were taken just south of I-40 on the road to Amboy.
So ends another delightful adventure of 833 miles with my dearest friend, an adventure that has led to greater respect for the all around prowess of the Jeep Cherokee and renewed appreciation for Kingman, my adopted hometown. Now, as a final note, an explanation for the title.
Calabasas seems to be broken into two distinct sections and as a result I initially had difficulty finding our motel. So, I asked directions.
The first person I asked was a bank security officer who informed me that he was new to the area but assumed it was to the west off U.S. 101. My second stop was to a UPS store, where not one, but two clerks gave me different directions with the final explanation being they weren't sure.
One went so far as to say, "I think that if you go to the second or third light, to the corner where the Canyon Bar used to be, you turn left."

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Other titles by this author from this publisher include:

Backroads of Arizona

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FROM THE PEN OF JIM HINCKLEY

  • GHOST TOWNS OF ROUTE 66, by Voyageur Press, summer, 2011
  • GHOST TOWNS OF THE SOUTHWEST, by Voyageur Press, 2nd printing June, 2010
  • BACKROADS OF ARIZONA, by Voyageur Press, 2nd printing spring 2009
  • BACKROADS OF ROUTE 66 by Voyageur Press
  • CHECKER CAB PHOTO HISTORY published by Iconografix
  • GREETINGS FROM ROUTE 66, by Voyageur Press, fall 2010
  • THE BIG BOOK OF CAR CULTURE, published by Motorbooks
  • American Road, feature articles
  • Cars & Parts, monthly column - THE INDEPENDENT THINKER
  • Hemmings Classic Car, feature articles
  • Kingman Daily Miner, automotive and travel columns
  • Old Cars Weekly, feature articles
  • Route 66, feature articles
  • Special Interest Autos, feature articles